
PACK 941
OFFICIAL
PINEWOOD DERBY
EVENT RULES
AND PROCEDURES

Table of
Contents:
I. GENERAL:
(Applies to all Race Events)
Rules about entering your car. (G1-G12)
II. CUB
SCOUT RACE CAR DESIGN STANDARDS
Rules about building your car. (T1-T12)
III. CONDUCT OF THE RACES
Rules that will be used during the races (C1-C15)
IV THE
RACING ENVIRONMENT
Things you need to know about the track, timers, and scoring (R1-R10)
V. SIBLING
RACE CAR DESIGN STANDARDS
A race for Siblings and Alumni only (P1-P5)
VI. SPECIAL
NOTE TO ALL CONCERNED
Some notes on Sportsmanship!
I. GENERAL RULES: (Applies
to all Race Events)
G-1. Qualification: All registered Pack 941 Scouts may design, build and enter cars are eligible to participate in the "Cub Scout Race" event. Siblings of Cub Scouts registered in Pack 941 may design, build and enter cars that are eligible to participate in the "Sibling Race" event.
G-2. Essential Materials: All cars entered shall be constructed from the "Official Grand Prix Pinewood Derby Kit" (referred to below as the kit) as distributed at the most recent November Pack meeting. Additional kits may be purchased from the Scout Store. (Kits may be purchased elsewhere if they are of the exact type manufactured by the BSA as specified above.)
G-3. Competitor Categories: All Scouts that are registered within Pack 941. All Scouts will compete against each other. If an open race is declared, then siblings and alumni may enter this Pinewood Derby open competition.
G-4. Attendance: The Cub Scout MUST enter his own car. This means that the Cub Scout must be present at "Inspection and Registration" to enter his car into competition. In the event the scout is sick or can not attend the race, the den leader will be responsible for entering the car into the race and handling of the car.
G-5. "New Work": Construction of ALL entries MUST have begun AFTER last year's Pack 941 Pinewood Derby Races with all new materials. No parts from earlier years races or other scouts parts may be used on the car. The same car can not be entered into future year’s event.
G-6. Single Entry per Person: Only one car may be registered by any person in the Pinewood Derby.
G-7. Inspection and Registration:
Each car must pass a technical inspection before it may compete.
Technical inspection and registration of cars occurs immediately prior to the
race. Immediately following registration and
inspection, cars will be turned over to race volunteers who will place it in
the staging area. No car owners are
permitted in the staging area at any time for any reason.
G-8. Late Registration and Inspection: If a Cub Scout fails to register his car by the start of the race, it will be excluded from further participation. No exceptions.
G-9. Failure to Pass Inspection: The Inspection Committee shall disqualify cars which do not meet the rules as described herein. If a car does not pass inspection, the scout will be informed of the reason his car did not pass. Cars which fail the initial inspection will be taken to a repair area where the repairs can be made separate from the inspection area. Once the scout has made the necessary repairs, he can get back of the end of the line and wait for his turn for inspection. If the car fails to pass inspection by race time, it will be excluded from further participation.
G-10. Impound: Once the scout hands the car to the qualification inspector, it is weighed, checked for proper size, checked for correct car number, and analyzed for improper components. If the car passes all inspections it is considered officially registered. No car may be altered in any way after it has been registered. After a car passes registration, it will not be returned to the scout, it will be stored by the Pinewood Derby Race Committee in the pit area.
G-11. Car Design Rules Interpretation: Interpretation of the rules described in G1 through G-10, and T-1 thru T-9 are at the sole discretion of the Inspection Committee Judges present during the Registration and Inspection process.
G12. Race-Day Rules Interpretation: On Race-Day, the Cub Scout must make all questions of rules interpretations and procedures to someone on the Pinewood Derby Chair or Race Officials promptly. Decisions of Race Officials on questions of rules interpretations and procedure may be appealed to the Pinewood Derby Chair consisting of the Cub Master, Assistant Cub Master, and Scout Committee representative. All decisions of the Pinewood Derby Chair are final. Decisions of Race Officials on questions of fact (i.e. the result of a specific race) may not be appealed beyond the Track Master and/or Finish Line Judges. Note: Unsportsmanlike conduct by any participant or spectator will be grounds for expulsion from the competition and/or the race area.
II. CUB SCOUT RACE CAR
DESIGN STANDARDS
T-1. Material: Race cars shall be constructed for this event from the parts contained in the Official Grand Prix Pinewood Derby Kit (referred to below as the kit) as sold by the Scout store. Materials from the kit may be supplemented but not replaced.
T-2. Weight: Race cars may weigh no more than five (5) ounces (total weight) as determined on the official scales during the pre-race check-in. Note: The official scale will be available in the Hopewell Elementary School office from January 16th until registration.
T-3. Wheels and Axles: The car shall roll on the original wheels from the kit. The wheels shall turn about the axle nails from the kit. The axle nails shall be firmly affixed to the wood of the car body, and MUST be placed in the original 'axle grooves' in the supplied wooden block. It must be obvious to the judges that the grooves, wheels, and the nails from the kit are being used.
T-4. Size:
1. Width - The overall width of the car shall not exceed 2 ¾” as determined by the official gages during the registration and inspection.
2. Length - The overall length of the car shall not exceed 7” as determined by the official gages during the registration and inspection.
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3. Height – Though BSA rules do not specify a height limit, the track design prohibits cars with a height greater than 3 ½” from safely running down the track.
4. Weight - The weight of the car shall not exceed 142.0 grams (5
ounces).
Cars will be weighed in on race day using a calibrated scale.
NOTE: CARS THAT EXCEED THE ABOVE WEIGHT ON THE OFFICIAL DISTRICT SCALE AT RACE DAY REGISTRATION WILL NOT BE PERMITTED TO RACE OVERWEIGHT. WE WILL ALLOW WEIGHT TO BE REMOVED FROM THE CAR PRIOR TO FINAL CHECK IN BY THE SCOUT AND HIS FAMILY. HOWEVER, NO WEIGHT MAY BE ADDED TO AN UNDERWEIGHT CAR.
5. Track Fit - The car must be constructed such that it fits the track. This means that it must straddle a lane guide which is ¼” inch high and 1 5/8” wide. The car should be the original width of the block at the axles and have a clearance of 3/8” from the ground. The car should be a maximum of 7” long, 2 ¾” wide, and 3 ½” high.

6. Underside Clearance - Underside clearance of at least 3/8 (0.375) inches and inside wheel to wheel clearance of at least 1-3/4 (1.75) inches is recommended, so that the car will run on the race track. Adequate clearance is the responsibility of the race car builder.
T-5. Weights and Attachment: Weight
may be added to the car and will be considered part of the car for purposes of
all measurements. "Weight" is considered to be any material on the
car that is not provided in the kit. All weight must be securely fastened to
the car, e.g. by permanent glue, nails
or screws, but not by "sticky substances", e.g. tape, or tack spray.
Weights shall be passive, i.e. non-moveable, non-magnetic, non-electric,
non-sticky, etc. No weights may be added
after the car has passed inspection and is considered registered. No loose materials of any kind are permitted
in the car. The car may be hollowed out
and built up to the 142.0 gram maximum by the addition of weights, provided any
additional material is securely built into the body of the car.
T-6. Wheel Treatment: Wheel treatment (hub and tread smoothing and polishing) may not result in substantial removal of mass nor in reducing the wheel width from the original kit wheels. Some of the original "tread marks" on the wheel face must remain intact, i.e. apparent to the inspector. Wheels may not be machined to a beveled condition and the portion of the wheel surface that contacts the track must remain parallel to the axle. Only the official BSA Pinewood Derby wheels and brad style axles supplied in your kit are permitted. The words "Official B.S.A. Made in U.S.A." and other lettering on the wheels shall remain intact and clearly visible to the inspector. The addition of spacers, washers, and bushings is prohibited. Axles must utilize the existing axle slots in the car body. The axles must be visible and cannot be covered by tape or any other material. Burrs may be sanded away from the plastic wheels, but excessive removal of material to “crown” the surface of the wheel that meets the track will not be permitted. Axles may not be plated.
NOTE: THE BSA SIGNATURE ON THE WHEELS MUST BE VISIBLE TO THE JUDGES AT
THE REGISTRATION DESK. ANY CAR, WHICH
INCORPORATES ANY WHEEL OR AXLE COMPONENTS NOT SUPPLIED IN THE OFFICIAL PINEWOOD
DERBY CAR KIT, WILL NOT BE PERMITTED TO RACE.

T-7. Unacceptable Construction: The following may NOT be used in conjunction with the wheels or axles: hubcaps, washers, inserts, sleeves, bearings. Other Attachments - The car shall not ride on any type of springs, or incorporate any other devices, which might aid in its travel.
T-8. Gravity Powered: The race car may not be constructed or treated in such a way that the track's starting mechanism imparts momentum to the car. (For instance, this provision disqualifies cars with sticky substances on the front of the car and protrusions which may catch on the starting pin.)
T-9. Lubricants: Only dry lubricants such as graphite or powdered Teflon "white lube" will be allowed for lubricating the wheels. Lubricants may not foul the track. All lubricants must be made prior to qualification. No additional lubrication may take place after the car is registered.
T-10. Staging: The entire car must
stage behind the starting pin.
T-11. Body: The car body may have
no moving parts.
T-12 Details - Steering wheels, driver decals, painting, and interior details are permissible as long as these details do not exceed the maximum length, width, and weight specifications. Make sure they are adequately secured to the car.
NOTE: METALLIC SILVER PAINT IS NOT RECOMMENDED. THE SENSORS ON THE
TRACK CAN REFLECT OFF THIS SURFACE AND CAUSE TIMING TO BE INCORRECT.
III. CONDUCT OF THE RACES
Competition will consist of heat races at the Pack
level. Track officials are responsible
for the proper conduct of the races. The heats will be organized by the
“Perfect N Series” schedule. All racers
will race on all 4 lanes of the track which will record the finish time in
1/1000 of a second and in miles per hour.
Standings will be determined from a cumulative sum of time of each car’s
four races. A heat is not considered complete
until the finish line judge or Track/Finish line judge considers the heat race
official. Scouts
AND PARENTS should also be familiar with these rules.
C-1. Inspection Gages: The race-day "Pit Stop" area will have the official scale and length box. That check-in equipment will be the official equipment for the race. (The same 5 oz. Master Weight used for scale calibration in pre-race check-in will also be available on race day. Please stress this fact to all Cub Scouts. They should be prepared to make adjustments to their cars if necessary.)
C-2. Race Day Lubrication: In the interest of fairness, the car must be lubricated prior to inspection. No additional lubrication is permitted after registration.
C-3. Car Handling Responsibility:
Scouts “on deck” shall be responsible to pick up their own cars in the
"Pit Stop" area, and take it to the starting line for staging. Cars will be staged on the tracks by the
"Starter Team." At the
completion of the race, a volunteer Boy Scout will return the cars to the Pit
area. Cars dropped or damaged during
racing may be repaired, as long as a race committee official is consulted
first, and the car can be re- inspected (if necessary) in time for the next
heat, but only if the repair does not hold up competition. Only minor repairs may be made on race day
under the supervision of qualification inspector.
C-4. Lane Assignment: Lane assignment for each heat shall be determined by the Perfect N Series scheduling routine. To equalize differences among track lanes, each scout will run in four races in four different lanes.
a.) In each successive heat, each car will race in a different track lane. For example, in a 4 lane track, each car will run in lane 1, in one heat, lane 2 in a different heat, lane 3 in a different heat, and lane 4 in the final heat..
b.) In the event the finish line timer fails, a point system will be used to determine the standings. From each heat, a score will be assigned to the finish place. First place will receive 1 point, Second place will receive 2 points, Third place will receive 3 points and Fourth place will receive 4 points. After 4 races, the car with the fewest points will be considered the winner. In the event there is a tie, the top finalists will run a series of 4 races to determine the winner using the same scoring rule.
C-5. Car Leaves Lane : If, during a race heat, a car leaves its lane but proceeds down the track in a manner that does not interfere with its opponent, then the race will be called normally. The errant car will be given a time of 10 seconds and a last place finish. If the car leaves its lane and interferes with another car, the race will be re-staged and re-run. If the same car again leaves it's lane and interferes with another car, that car will be judged last place and given a time of 10 seconds, and the race will be re-staged and re-run without that car.
C-6. Car Leaves Track: If, during a race heat, a car leaves the track without interfering with its opponent, it shall be considered to have ended its heat at that point and given a time of 10 seconds.
C-7. Car Repair (Without Fault): If, during the race, a wheel falls off or the car becomes otherwise damaged, then the SCOUT may, to the best of his ability perform repairs with the assistance of his adult partner and repair station mentor under the supervision of qualification inspector.
C-8 Car Repair (With Fault): If a car is damaged due to track fault, or damage caused by another car or person, then the Trackmaster, at his sole discretion, may allow additional repair assistance to the Cub under the supervision of qualification inspector.
C-9. No Finishers: If, during a race heat, no car reaches the finish line on the track, the car which went the farthest in its lane shall be declared as the heat winner and all cars will receive a time of 10 seconds.
C-10. Call to Race: Competitors will be called by car number prior to each heat. When his car number is called, each SCOUT will retrieve his car from "the stage" and present himself, with his car, to the track lane starter. If the Cub does not respond, his name will be called a second and third time. If the Cub has not presented himself in time for his heat, he will be judged as placing last for that race heat and will be given a time of 10 seconds. If no competitor is present, the track chairman may, at his sole discretion, defer the race heat in a manner that does not interfere with progress of the racing.
The starter will make sure the cars are on the track properly. Once your car is set on the track, you should report to the finish line to observe the race. The starter will then release the cars to start the race. The car whose nose is over the finish line first is the winner. This will be determined by the electronic computer controlled finish line, or designated impartial finish line judges.
Only the finish line judge can remove cars from the track.
C-11. Appeals: The Cub Scout must
make all questions of rules interpretations, procedure and fact to the track
officials promptly. A station at each track will be designated for this
purpose.
C-12. Track Champion: The top 4 finishers will have their cars re-examined by the inspection chairperson to verify compliance with the rules of the tournament. If the car meets compliance, the race is considered official. Champions shall be accompanied, with his car, from the track to the stage by his parent or other designee.
C-13. Track Fault: If a car leaves its lane, at his sole discretion, the Track Master may inspect the track and, if a track fault is found which probably caused the initial violation, the Track Master may order the race heat to be rerun after the track is repaired.
C-14. The Race Area: Only race officials may enter the track area. This rule will be strictly enforced.
C-15. Rewards and Recognition: The most important values in Pinewood Derby competition are parent/son participation, good sportsmanship and learning how to follow rules. The Awards Committee is responsible for recognizing and encouraging these qualities in addition to traditional racing awards. Racers will be recognized as follows:
a.) Every participating Scout will receive a Pinewood Derby patch and certificate.
b.) Speed trophies will be awarded to the first, second, third and fourth-place finishers.
c) Smaller speed trophies will be awarded for the fifth thru tenth-place finishers overall.
d) Trophies will be awarded to the top 10 cars for design for winning its own unique appearance category (Most Creative, Most Humorous, Most Colorful, Best Paint Job, and so on).
IV. THE RACING ENVIRONMENT
R-1. Track Length and Drop: The track shall have a racing surface (starting line to finish line distance) of approximately 28 feet with a drop of approximately 4 feet.
R-2. Track Slope: The track slope shall decrease from approximately 30 degrees at the starting line to approximately 0 degrees at the finish line.
R-3. Lanes: Each lane will consist of a straight, smooth wooden strip approximately 1-1/2 (1.50) inches, but certainly less than 1-3/4 (1.75) inches, wide and approximately 1/4 (0.25) inches, but certainly less than 3/8 (0.375) inches thick, centered on a smooth surface no less than 4 inches wide. Each race car shall straddle such a strip during its heats.
R-4. Starting Mechanism: The "starting line" shall consist of a vertical pins of approximately 1/4 inch diameter, extending approximately 1 inch above the track surface and approximately centered in the each lane.
R-5. Finish Line Sensor Location: The track has electronics called "finish line sensors" that shall be in alignment with the corresponding starting line pin and be approximately centered in its lane. The time for each car will be displayed recorded to the 1/1000 of a second and in MPH.
R-6. Finish Line Judging: Three impartial Finish Line Judges shall be at station to observe each heat, on each track. Heat finish judging is determined by the finish line sensor, but may be challenged by a majority rule of the Finish Line Judges. If the track's electronic finish line sensor's result is challenged by the Finish Line Judges and supported with convincing evidence, the race will not be considered “official” and will be re-staged and re-run.
R-7. Finish Line Judge Backup: Finish Line Judges will temporarily excuse themselves if they know that one of the heat contestants is a son or relative. Backup Finish Line Judges shall be available in case a judge needs to be excused for any reason.
R-8. The "Big Board": Competition shall be head-to-head cumulative time/speed competition. The result of each heat will be displayed on an event chart called the "Big Board." The Big Board will be located in the front of the auditorium.
R-9. Finish Line Electronics Sensitivity: Track Finish Line Electronics, if used, must trigger correctly if a lead pencil is passed 3/4 (0.75) inches above the track surface at a speed of 15 feet per second.
R-10. Finish Line Clearance: Track Finish Line Electronics and other track accessories, if used, must be no closer than 3 inches above the track.
V. OPEN RACE CAR DESIGN
STANDARDS (If run)
(... or "Why
should the kids have ALL the fun?")
(Typically the pack only runs the cub scout race and does not hold an
open race. This reference is listed in
the event the pack decides to allow an open race event sometime in the future)
The purpose of the Open Race event is to have a little fun, to test our Pinewood Derby tracks. It will also help us to 'bleed' off some of our nervous competitive anxiety allowing us to be calm and collected during the Scouts race! (right?)
All participants are encouraged to build their own cars. The open race will be held following the Scouts' race if approved by the race committee. Any sibling of a Cub Scout who is registered in Pack 941 may enter this race.
P-1. Technical standards: All the same Technical Standards for the Cub Scout race (above) will be used in the open Race.
P-2. Number Of Entries: You may race only 1 car.
P-3. The Car: You may NOT use a scout’s current car for this race.
P-4. Weigh-In: Cars must be inspected, weighed, and registered prior to the race.
P-5. What Do The Winners Get? Winners will be recognized with honor, glory, and GREAT accolades!
VI. SPECIAL NOTES TO ALL
CONCERNED
This project is a parent and son event, and is recommended as such by the National Boy Scouts of America. The Pinewood Derby Committee STRONGLY SUGGESTS that each parent emphasize this idea with your son. In all of the events, we require that the cars be built this year.
Sportsmanship:
Two things the Pinewood Derby requires each participant to learn are 1) the craft skills necessary to build a car, and 2) the rules that must be followed. Even more important, though, is how we act and behave while participating in the Pinewood Derby or any other group activity. This is called sportsmanship.
The first thing to remember about sportsmanship is that everyone's skills are a little different. You may be good at something like singing or drawing, but not as good at something else like basketball or computers. Parents have different skill levels, too. This doesn't mean that you are a good person one time and not good another time. You can always be a good person, whether or not you have good car-building skills. Remember, you and your friends are individuals first and racers second. This idea is often called having respect for others.
The second thing to remember is to follow the rules. Without rules, there would be no Pinewood Derby. You will never know if you are really good at doing something unless you follow the rules. This is often called being honest.
The third thing to remember about good sportsmanship is that there are winners and losers in every competition. You accept this when you choose to compete. There may be times when you win and feel happy, and times when you lose and feel unhappy. Being a winner is easy, and losing is sometimes hard. If you win, you must not brag or gloat. If you lose, you must not feel jealous or bitter. To be a good sportsman, you must be able to say "I did my best" and be satisfied with the results. You must also be able to appreciate and feel happy for someone else when they run a good race or build a neat car.
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HAVE FUN
and cheer the other drivers on
in the spirit of Scouting
and doing your best!
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Important Dates to
Remember:
1/28 Inspection and Registration, Hopewell Elementary School - 1:00pm to 2:00pm
1/28 Pinewood Derby Race! 2:00pm thru 6:00pm
1/28 Pizza party and drinks 3:00 pm thru 5:00 pm
A Scout’s primary goal in Pinewood Derby should be to:
Work together with a parent on a joint project
Acquire a healthy attitude about competition and sportsmanship
Become more proficient at woodworking
Survive the experience with all ten fingers
Coping Saw
File
Ruler
Wood putty
Sandpaper (Coarse, Medium, Fine)
Masking Tape
Tack Rag
Spray Paint, Model Paints & Brushes
Super Glue Gel or Epoxy
Big Lead Fishing Weights
Safety Glasses
1. Sketch out design and tape or draw on block of wood
a.
2D designs are
much simpler to make!
b. Make sure design is within the rules of height, length
and width dimensions
c.
Consider drilling
holes and adding weights now or after painting
d. Cut out design outline, file and sand smooth
2. Paint the Car and avoid handling for at least 24 hours
3. Axle preparation - before sticking axles in the wheels
a. Check Axles are straight by rolling on flat surface
b. File down web on nail head
c. File down ridges on nail body
4. Wheel preparation
a.
Sand off bumps
and mold flashing on wheel surfaces
b. Check that the wheels roll straight on a slight
incline
5. Prepare the wheel and axles for final assembly
a. Check that the axle slots are square
b. Keep a 1/16” to 1/8” space between wheels and car body
c. Glue the axles in the slots – non-glued nails have come loose during races
d. I like Super Glue gel or epoxy (hot melts don’t hold up).
e. Keep glue away from wheels – e.g. protect with tape etc.
6. Weigh the Car
a.
Add your weights
and glue them in too
b. Patch holes with wood putty and sand smooth
7.
Lubricate the
wheels and verify that the car rolls freely on a slight incline
8.
Have fun, be
patient and say a few prayers
Maximize weight
Use a dry graphite lubricant, not grease or oil
Polish axles with very fine sandpaper
Keep Center of Gravity ~1” forward of Back Wheels along centerline
Add weights from the bottom side within the car’s volume - do not let them stick out from bottom
Sand car smooth and tack off all dust etc.
Consider a primer or sealer coat before final paint
Let dry a full day before handling again
Get the bottom sanded smooth but don’t worry about its paint quality
If using tape for designs pull off when paint is still wet
Clear coats add gloss and depth, test to make sure it compatible with your paint
Hobby stores (Michaels) have detailing supplies – decals, drivers, wheels, fenders etc.
See the web for additional tips - search on Pinewood Derby
Other
Tips and Hints
FRICTION: One of the best ways to eliminate friction is graphite. A good dosage may not do wonders for the paint job, but it will for your axles (hopefully you didn't glue the axles too far in or that will impair the wheel). Most axles in the kits have burrs on them around the head. De-burr the axles with a small file.
WEIGHT:
It boils down to this, the closer you
get to 5 ounces without going over, the better off you will be. The placement
of the weight on the car (front or back) is an item which has been argued for
years. Weight toward the rear seems to work best, along as the front wheels
track straight. Just remember – gravity is the only power these cars use.
AERODYNAMICS:
There are just about as many
arguments on this topic as there are Pinewood Derby racers. It has been tried,
several times, to race a car, as is, straight out of the box with no cutting,
shaping or painting of the wood. These cars seem to perform, on average, just
as well as the low, sleek, aerodynamic models. The bottom line is: Let the boy
design the car, and help him achieve his design! If the adult wants to tinker
with the car, tinker with the wheels and axles. The car design has almost no
bearing on the outcome of the race.
ALIGNMENT:
Make sure that the car's wheels are
placed as straight as possible. Place the car on the floor and roll it about 8
to 10 feet. The car should go in a straight line. Adjust with the axle
placement to make double sure the car will roll straight.
WHEELS
and AXLES: Make sure that the axles
are glued securely to the wood. Also ensure that the wheel is not glued to the
axle. The wheels are single most important part. Make sure the wheels are on
straight and turn freely.
DESIGN
/ SHAPE: The finish line uses
electronic infrared sensors to detect the car moving across the finish line.
These sensors are directly centered in each lane of the track. The starting
gate of the track uses a bolt in the center of the track. This is to ensure
that the length of roll each car will have to the finish line sensors will be
the same for each car no matter what the shape of each car is. Keep a high
track clearance so that nothing has a chance to rub on the underside of the
car. Remember that the cars straddle a wood lath as they roll down the track.
PAINT:
Let your imagination run wild!!
Whether you use 50 coats of hand rubbed lacquer, olive drab or no paint at all,
all it will do is affect the looks of your car. It will not run any faster or
slower whether it's red, blue, green, yellow, flames, no-flames, or pink
polka-dots!! Let the boy paint the car. Drips of spray paint don't slow the car
down.
ACCESSORIES: Glue those Lego and Pokemon characters in! Anything that falls off in the race stays off. This can lighten you car enough to slow it down.
Remember to -- Have fun! Do your best! Learn to work with your hands! Be a good sport! Build a happy memory!
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PINEWOOD
DERBY®
QUESTIONS & ANSWERS
I
was a 5th-grade Webelos, but crossed-over into a Boy Scout troop between the
Pack Race and the District Race. Can I still enter my car in the District
Pinewood Derby?
Yes, absolutely! Make sure that your former Cubmaster knows that
you intend to race.
The
hobby store at the shopping center sells precut car bodies. Can I use those
instead the block from the kit?
No, not for racing. For
"design events", such resources can be used provided that the
original block is "prominent in the design." For instance, using the
unimproved original block as a base to set other material on does not make it "prominent."
Reference: "G-2. Essential Materials" under
"GENERAL rules" and rule T-1.
A
national supplier of pinewood derby stuff sells "performance axles and
wheels". Can I use those instead of the wheels and axles from the kit?
No. The performance wheels
can be recognized by a slight indentation across the tread profile. That
indentation is not a legal profile. Legal profile requires that the tread be
straight across. (Reference: Rule T-6.)
The axles can be recognized by an indentation on the outer face of
the axle head.
Reference: "G-2. Essential Materials" under "GENERAL rules"
and rule T-3.
My
front wheels extend beyond the front of my car. Is this permitted?
No. See rule T-10.
My
car has a hole in the middle. Can I stage it at the starting line so that the
starting pin goes up through the center of the car?
No. It would not recommended anyway since, even with the head
start, it will not perform as well. (Would you believe more than two car
lengths slower?)
My
car has only 5/16" clearance between the body and the bottom of the
wheels. If my car leaves the track because of a "high spot", will a
rerun be allowed?
Probably not. If the "high spot" is less than 3/8",
then the track is proper in that respect (see rule R-3), and the car "is at fault" because it ignored the
guidance in rule T-4.
(Continuing
from last question) Then, can I change my car to correct the problem?
The track chairman may allow this "improvement",
provided that the Cub Scout can perform the changes in accordance with rule C-5.
I
must arrive late for the race because of a ball game. Can my brother (or
friend, or parent) check my car in for me?
No. You must choose which activity to participate in. See
"G-3. Attendance" under "GENERAL rules".
My
Cubmaster (or Dad, or Grandfather) built a car when he was a Cub Scout. Can we
race it in the Cub Scout Race?
No, but he can show it and race it in the open race event if it is
held.
Do
I have to put the axles in the slots of the original block?
Yes, All cars must
use the same original axel location using the nails provided.
When
I set my car on a flat surface, one of the wheels does not touch. Is this okay?
Yes. Not all of the wheels must touch. This can be advantageous in
some cases, and disadvantageous in others.
My
car was weighed at the XXXX High Precision Laboratory and found to be 4.999995
ounces. On race day they told me that my car was "too heavy" and that
I must reduce its weight before it will be allowed to race. This isn't fair.
A number of factors come
into play in this. First, wood is "not stable". For instance, it can
absorb moisture from the air. Thus, its weight can change slightly from day to
day. Since you were so close to the limit at that time, it is reasonable to
believe that you are now over the limit.
Secondly, if the race official must take your word for compliance,
then they must take everyone's word for compliance. So, there would be no need
for inspection. Remember, not everyone is as honest as you are!
Third, five ounces is what the official scale says is five ounces.
Every effort will be made to assure that the scale is accurate and that a
reliable 5-ounce standard is available to verify the scale's accuracy. The
important thing is that everyone races according to the same standard.
Oops!
My car is much lighter than 5 ounces. Can I add weight on race day?
Yes, provided that rules, especially rule T-5, are satisfied. For instance, you may securely attach a penny
(nickle, dime, quarter, washer, chunk of lead, etc) to the top of the car using
"super-glue", but not with tape or "spray tack". Of course,
after the change, the car must still pass inspection. Be extra careful about
adding weight to the underside of the car. This could cause the car to drag on
the center guide rail if the 3/8" underbody clearance were not present.
I
heard about a "super slick" lubricant that I want to use on my
wheels. Is that allowed?
Yes, provided it is dry at
the time of inspection and racing. See rule T-9.
Oil and grease are not "dry." Graphite is dry.
My
wheels and axles from last year performed really well. Can I use them in this
year's car?
No. See rule "G-5.
New Work" under "GENERAL rules".
Regarding
rule T-3, how will the judge recognize the nail as being from the kit?
By looking at the nail head and, if it is visible in the slot, the
nail point. The shape and texture of the nail head is the key indicator, so it
should not be polished or changed substantially.
What
can I do if the inspection judge says that my wheels are illegally crowned?
(See rule T-6)
The Cub Scout may appeal to the inspection chairman, and to the
event chairman. If the appeals are denied, the Cub Scout and his assistant may
replace the wheels or decline to race. Additional wheel kits will NOT be
available at the race.
I
think that my wheels last year might have been illegal, but the inspection
judges let me race. Does that mean that if I do the wheels exactly the same way
this year, then I will have no problem with them at inspection?
The results from last year's inspection don't determine the
results of this year's inspection. Perhaps the inspection judge was not trained
as well as the team the year, or perhaps the inspection judge just made a
mistake last year.
We will be trying to assure that all inspection judges will be well trained
this year and that they will do their jobs consistently and in strict
accordance with the current rules.
Two
styles of wheels are in the Grand Prix Pinewood Derby kits sold by the Boy
Scout Service Shop. Can either be used?
Only wheels from the current "Official BSA Grand Prix
Pinewood Derby" wheels and are acceptable for racing.
On
close inspection, the wheels that are "fresh out of the BSA box" do
not appear to be "flat across the tread" as required in the rules.
Can they be raced "out of the box, as is?" Or must the tread be
"flattened" in order to satisfy the district rules?
Wheels can be raced "as is", exactly as supplied by BSA,
"fresh out of the BSA box." If the wheels are "worked",
then they must conform to the rules. (The inspection judge can tell the
difference!)
Must
my axles be level? Is it okay to angle them up or down? [Some builders believe
that angling the ends of the axles up so that the wheels stay at the ends of
the axles and ride on the inside edge of the tread is advantageous.]
Axles do not need to be level. (Read the next question and answer
carefully before using this.)
I
have not been able to sand the wheels so that they are perfectly cylindrical.
The tread has a slightly conic shape. There is a small, but visible, gap when
the wheel treads are measured for parallel. [Some builders believe that angling
the tread (so that the wheel diameter is larger on one edge than on the other)
and causing the wheel to ride on one edge is advantageous.]
The inspector will determine if the conical shape is used to cause
the wheel to ride on its edge by looking at how the wheel rests on the test
track section. If the wheel still sits flat on the track, then the conical
shape is not excessive. (Note that angling the axles as described in the
previous question may cause your car to fail this secondary test.)
I weighed my
car in the lobby area and it was under 5 oz, but on the scale in the check in
line it is overweight. Doesn’t the lobby scale weight count?
No,
the pit scale weight does not count. The official weight for a car is the
weight taken on the check in line scale.
If the lobby
scale does not count, then what use is it?
The
purpose of the pit scale is to help you get really close to the official
weight. To help assure that you are using a properly calibrated scale and using
it correctly, we will provide a reference that has been weighed on the official
scale. Pit scale results will still not be "official", but you should
expect to be within a couple hundredths of an ounce of the official weight.
(One racer used an inch-long bead of hot glue on the top of his car to add
about 0.05 ounces to his car. It would have been easily trimmed with a knife if
the car turned out to be a bit over the limit.)
I can't arrive
until after the start of the race. What can I do?
Notify the race commission prior to the
race, Arrive when you can. Tell the
person at the registration desk that you are a late arrival. You still have to
go through inspection, and you will not get any special treatment there, such
as being put at the front of the line. When inspection is completed
satisfactorily, you may go to your race area. If you have missed a previous
race heat, you would have received a score of 10 seconds, a place score of 4,
and will count toward your overall cumulative score, but you may race in the
following races.